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How much food should I feed my cat? |
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When trying to determine an appropriate
amount, there are several factors to
consider:
- the cat’s age
- the cat’s health
- body type
- activity level
- type of food being fed
- whether the cat is pregnant or nursing
Label instructions are general guidelines.
Your individual cat may require more or less
based on the above factors. Your
veterinarian will be able to advise you on
what your cat’s ideal weight should be and
how to make any necessary and safe
adjustments to the current nutritional
program.
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My cat hates getting into his carrier. How
can I get him to accept it? |
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One of the most common reasons a cat hates
the very sight of the carrier is because
it’s usually only brought out when it’s time
for a visit to the veterinarian. You
certainly can’t blame a cat for not wanting
to happily hump right in there. Begin the
training process by leaving the carrier out
in the room. The best type of carrier to use
for this training is the plastic kennel with
the front entry grill door. Keep the door
open and line the bottom of the carrier with
a folded towel. Once the cat is used to the
presence of the carrier you can begin the
second phase of training. Place a treat near
the carrier or you can feed him his meal
nearby. Make sure you start at a safe enough
distance so the cat remains in his comfort
zone. When she’s comfortable with that you
can place the treat closer to the carrier.
Gradually work up to placing the treat
inside the carrier.
The third phase of training comes next. This
is where you toss a treat in the carrier,
the cat goes in and you gently and casually
shut the door for a few seconds. Next, lift
the carrier up and walk around the room. The
point of this whole procedure is to show
your cat that the appearance of the carrier
doesn’t always indicate a veterinarian visit
and that the carrier itself can be a
positive or at least neutral experience.
Take your cat for short rides in the car
(around the block or to the bank drive-thru)
and reward him with a treat or part of her
meal when you return home.
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Why has my cat suddenly become so vocal? |
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Your cat may also be in pain so make sure
she has been checked out by the
veterinarian. If the excessive vocalization
is a change from your cat’s normal behavior,
be sure you make an appointment with the
veterinarian.
If you have a Siamese or other breed known
for being talkative, then you might as well
skip over this answer because she’s not
going to change. Siamese cats love to
provide running narratives on their daily
activities and aren’t shy about voicing
opinions. Know this and accept it.
Other cats may become vocal for several
reasons. Mostly it’s a surefire way of
getting your attention. When the less subtle
method of staring you down, walking back and
forth across your sleeping body or sitting
on your chest doesn’t do the trick, nonstop
meows usually work. The odds are that
because she is born with patience,
determination and unrelenting persistence,
you’ll eventually cave in and give her what
she wants. It may take five minutes of
meowing, but she now knows that as long as
she doesn’t give up, you’ll give in. Whether
it’s to be let outside, fed, or petted, she
knows that you know the only way to quiet
her is to surrender. How do you change this
behavior? Don’t reward negative behavior.
Instead of rewarding her meowing, redirect
her with interactive toy before she begins
to vocalize. The key is to retain the
behavior before it actually materializes.
Redirect the behavior while it’s still a
thought in her head that hasn’t been acted
upon yet.
Your cat may be vocalizing due to
insufficient stimulation. Make sure you’re
engaging in daily interactive play sessions
and that you are leaving enough activities
available for her when you aren’t home. A
cat tree that overlooks a bird feeder is a
good choice and so is setting up a couple of
paper bag tunnels.
An older cat may vocalize at night after
everyone has gone to bed. As she walks
through the darkened, quiet house, her
declining senses may cause her to become
disoriented. Consult your veterinarian to
make sure this isn’t the case. In some
cases, it helps just to call out to the
yowling older kitty to let her more easily
find you.
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Why has my cat stopped using the litter box? |
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Your veterinarian is the first person you
should call if your cat begins rejecting the
litter box. Don’t automatically assume the
problem is behavioral because there’s a
chance that it could be medically related.
The rejection of the box can occur because
the cat associates the pain that he feels
with the box itself. He thinks that by
eliminating in a different location he’ll
avoid the discomfort.
Many cats are prone to FLUTD (feline lower
urinary tract disease) which often leads to
accidents outside of the litter box. Aside
from the pain associated with the box, FLUTD
causes the cat to experience a feeling of
urgency whenever there’s a small amount of
urine in the bladder. You may notice spots
of urine on the carpet or even in the
bathtub. Very often, the urine is
blood-tinged.
There are other medical conditions as well
that can result in urinating outside of the
box. Diabetes and renal disease are two
common examples. Both of these conditions
cause increased water consumption, which
leads to increased urination. Getting to the
litter box in time can be difficult for some
of these cats.
If you’ve noticed that your cat has been
having any type of accidents outside of the
box, get to your vet immediately. Once the
kitty gets a clean bill of health, then you
can begin to tackle the problem from a
behavioral standpoint.
To successfully solve the problem, you must
first differentiate between indiscriminate
urination and spraying. Indiscriminate
urination is mostly performed on horizontal
surfaces. Spraying, which is a marking
behavior, is usually (but not always) done
on vertical surfaces. How you treat the
problem differs, based on which behavior
your cat is exhibiting. Think Like a
Cat and Cat vs. Cat go
into detail on how to tell the difference
and the specific step-by-step approaches for
re-training the cat back to the box.
A dirty litter box will drive a cat away
faster than you can twitch a whisker. Cats
are very clean and they don’t want to use a
filthy box any more than you’d want to use a
filthy bathroom. When using litter that can
be scooped, you need to scoop the waste at
least once a day. When using regular litter
that cannot be scooped, you’ll still need to
clean daily by removing the solid waste. The
box itself needs to be cleaned on a regular
basis.
Cats often reject covered litter boxes.
Because the air doesn’t circulate adequately
to dry the litter, the odor inside can be
overwhelming to kitty’s sensitive nose.
Covered boxes also create an "out of sight –
out of mind" mentality so many owners
neglect to check the box daily. The cat will
sometimes eliminate close to the box instead
of actually going inside. It’s almost as if
he’s trying his best to get to the box but
this is as close as he can tolerate.
It could be the litter substrate that your
cat finds objectionable. Very often, if a
cat doesn’t like the feel of the litter,
he’ll perch on the edge of the box,
sometimes hanging his hind end over the
edge. You may also notice that he bolts out
of the box immediately after eliminating and
paws the area around the box. If he doesn’t
like the litter texture, you may find him
eliminating on the nearby bathroom rug or on
any towels left on the floor.
Your cat may be rejecting the box for
another behavioral reason, unrelated to the
box. This gets more complicated because it
could be anything from a change in the
household to the appearance of a strange cat
outside. This is where you have to play
detective to get to the cause of your cat’s
anxiety.
Don’t use any sort of punishment to retrain
your cat back to the box. He is already
extremely stressed out and punishment will
only worsen the situation.
Finding the cause and either eliminating it
or modifying it in a way acceptable to your
cat is the key to solving the problem.
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What products should I use to clean cat
urine
from carpets? |
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Use an enzyme-based odor neutralizer.
Regular household cleaners only cover the
odor and the cat will still be able to
detect his urine scent, triggering him to
eliminate in that spot again. Enzyme-based
neutralizers completely eliminate the odor
as well as the stain. Enzyme cleaners are
available at pet supply stores.
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How much litter should I put in the box? |
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A common mistake owners make is to use too
little or way too much. A general guideline
is to start with about a 2" layer and then
make adjustments as you monitor your cat’s
specific needs. If the plastic bottom of the
box is visible after the cat covers his
elimination, then you need more litter.
Maintain the correct level as you remove the
solid clumps by regularly adding fresh
litter.
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My cat won’t use her scratching post and
she’s ruining my furniture. What
should I do? |
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The first step in re-training your cat
involves your understanding of why she needs
to scratch in the first place. It isn’t
motivated by her desire to destroy your
sofa, nor is she being spiteful, stubborn or
stupid. Scratching is a natural behavior in
a cat, serving many vital functions. The
most obvious is that it keeps the cat’s
nails in good condition. As she rakes her
nails across the surface, the dead outer
sheath is removed, exposing the new nail
beneath.
Scratching is also used for marking
purposes. In the wild, the marks serve as a
visual calling card, letting others know
that the territory is claimed. Additionally,
scent glands in the cat’s paw pads leave an
olfactory mark as well. Cats also use
scratching to enable them to get a full back
and shoulder stretch.
Your cat needs a scratching surface that is
tall, sturdy and covered in a rough
material. If the scratching post at your
house is short, wobbly or covered in soft
carpet then your furniture is doomed to
destruction. A carpeted post just doesn’t
have what it takes. The solution? Purchase
or construct the appropriately textured and
sized post.
The post should be covered in something
rough, such as sisal. It should also be tall
enough for the cat to get a full stretch. To
prevent the post from toppling over, the
base must be wide and heavy. You can find
instructions for making the ideal post,
based on your cat’s scratching preference
and personality, in Think Like a Cat.
You will also find information on purchasing
the best scratching posts.
Once you have a great post, you’ll need to
make your furniture unappealing during the
re-training process. You can either put
double-faced masking tape on the corners of
the furniture or you can cover the piece
entirely with a sheet. If using a sheet, be
sure to tuck it in all around. Place the
post right next to the covered furniture.
The next time your cat goes over to scratch,
she’ll see the new post and will be curious
enough to try it out. You can increase
her interest by conducting a play session
around the post. This method only works if
you have a great post so don’t attempt this
with the current post that she already
rejected.
You don’t have to live with tattered
furniture. All it takes is creating the
right scratching environment for your kitty
and she’ll run to it time and time again. In
Think Like a Cat you’ll find
solutions for re-training a cat back to the
scratching post no matter how many years she
has spent tearing up the sofa.
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How can I stop my cat from waking me up at
5:00 a.m.? |
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Unintentionally, you’re probably the one who
has trained him to do that very thing. Very
often, an owner will get out of bed and put
food in the bowl just to quiet the cat. By
doing that, you’ve just taught him that his
early morning antics bring a reward.
Re-training is actually very simple but it
does take patience. Shift your kitty’s
internal clock by adjusting your evening
routine. Engage in an interactive play
session with him right before you go to bed.
An interactive toy is based on a fishing
pole design that enables you to keep the
action going for your kitty. The game should
last at least 15 minutes in order for him to
feel satisfied. It's important to wind the
action down as the game ends.
Another trick that works well if you feed
scheduled meals, is to feed him right before
you go to bed. Don’t increase his amount of
food, just save a little from his regular
dinner and offer it at bedtime.
Make sure you leave a couple of safe
activity toys out during the night so he can
pass the time while you snooze. Even a ping
pong ball inside of an empty tissue box or
paper bag makes a great toy.
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I’d like to adopt a second cat. How
will my first
cat react? |
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Initially, your resident cat isn’t going to
look upon this matter lightly. The best way
to bring in a second cat is to have a
separate room set up for him. He should stay
in there for about one or two weeks. This
gives him time to get settled into his new
surroundings and it also gives your resident
cat time to adjust.
The introduction should be done a sense at a
time – meaning, don’t overwhelm either cat
by forcing them to confront each other. Let
them get used to each other’s scent first,
before they actually see each other. Put a
sock on your hand and rub the new cat. Once
you have collected his scent, place that
sock in your resident cat’s territory. Take
the mate to that sock and rub your resident
cat down and deposit it in the newcomer’s
room. This way, they can start to
investigate each other slowly and safely.
The next step involves letting the new guy
check out the rest of the house. Place your
resident cat in another room and then let
the newcomer walk around a bit. This helps
him become further acquainted with your
cat’s scent and it allows him to leave some
of his own scent marks around the house.
The key to a good introduction is to keep
the experience positive. Never force the
cats together or they’ll certainly hate each
other. When they do actually meet, it should
be for short periods and you should use
something positive as a distraction – such
as treat food.
There are several easy tricks to help ensure
a peaceful introduction and accelerate the
bonding process. You can find all of them
listed step-by-step in Think Like a
Cat and Cat vs. Cat.
You’ll also find help in case you already
went through an introduction that didn’t go
well and now are experiencing fur-flying
battles on a daily basis.
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I’m expecting. Will my cat be jealous of the
new baby? |
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There’s a misconception about cats when it
comes to babies. Owners assume that the cat
will become jealous, when in reality, the
cat is just confused and anxious. Since a
cat is a territorial creature of habit, the
appearance of a strange-looking,
odd-smelling creature who emits high-pitched
noises, is very scary.
The best way to help your cat accept the new
baby is to ease him into it. During your
pregnancy is the time to get your cat used
to the changes that’ll be taking place.
First, decorate your nursery in stages – not
all at once. Give your cat time between each
stage to get used to the environmental
changes. Also, get a tape of baby noises
(enlist the help of a friend or neighbor)
and begin playing it at a low volume while
you engage in interactive play sessions with
your cat.
One mistake many owners make is that they
lavish an abundance of attention on the cat
during the wife’s pregnancy. The problem is
that the amount of attention always
drastically falls off after the baby
arrives. Keep your cat’s life as
consistently normal as possible.
Cats and babies get along beautifully. With
a little forethought, you can help your
kitty and baby start building a loving bond.
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I recently switched brands of litter and now
my cat won’t use the litter box. Why
did this happen? |
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Cats are creatures of habit and if you force
an abrupt change on them you’ll run into
trouble. If you must switch brands of
litter, do it gradually by mixing a little
of the new litter in with the old brand.
Over the course of 5-7 days you can increase
the amount of new litter and decrease the
old. During this time, monitor the box
carefully to make sure your cat is handling
the transition successfully.
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How do I keep my cat off the counter? |
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First, I’ll tell you what you shouldn’t do.
Never yell, spank or punish your cat. All
that punishment will accomplish is to make
the cat fear you. He’ll also learn that he
can’t go on the counter as long as you’re
home but he can do it when you’re not there
to yell at him. My best method for
training a cat to stay off the counter
involves placing a plastic carpet runner on
the counter’s surface. Choose a carpet
runner that has the pointy nubs on it and
place it on the counter with the nubs facing
up. You can cut the carpet runner into
pieces to fit the configuration of your
counter. double-faced masking tape and vinyl
placemats. Place several strips of tape
across the placemats and then lay the
placemats along the counter. This form of
"remote control training" works because the
cat will soon realize that he doesn’t like
the way the counter feels. After a few times
of jumping up there and feeling the plastic
nubs/sticky tape under his paws, he’ll
decide to find a more comfortable place to
perch. "Sticky Paws" is a product made
specifically for training cats. It is a
double faced tape available at pet supply
stores.
Another option is to use the X-Mat. This
plastic mat is based on the general same
principle of the carpet runner with pointy
nubs. See our Recommended Products page to
order the X-Mat. For this to be effective,
the placemats carpet runner or X-Mat must
remain on the counter whenever you’re not
using it. After a week or two you can begin
removing one at a time remove them for short
periods. The training works because the cat
will still associate the uncomfortable
feeling of the sticky tape with the counter
long after the placemats are gone.
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How do I stop my indoor cat from digging in
my plants? |
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This is a common problem. Some cats will
even use the soil in the planters as
impromptu litter boxes.
One of the ways to protect your planters is
to cover the soil with rocks. Use large
rocks so your cat can’t push them aside.
Don’t use pebbles because they’ll resemble
litter and also, you run the risk of your
cat ingesting one. The rocks enable you to
still easily water your plants.
Another solution is to put garden netting
over the soil. Cats don’t like to scratch on
the netting. There's also a product called
"Sticky Paws for Plants" that's very
effective.
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We’re planning to move soon. What can I do
to help my cats through the transition? |
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Set up one room in your new home for your
cats. Let them get comfortable in that room
before exposing them to the rest of the
house. A change as drastic as moving is one
of the most stressful experiences cats go
through. Don’t overwhelm them with the whole
house all at once. They also need time to
learn the location of the litter box.
One way to help your cats become comfortable
with an unfamiliar home is by assisting them
in marking the new territory in a positive
way. Cats use scent glands on their faces to
distribute pheromones (scent chemicals).
These facial pheromones are used to mark the
nest and have a calming effect on the cat.
Put socks over your hands and gently rub
around each of your cats’ heads, paying
close attention to the sides of the mouth.
Then, rub the sock along doorways, wall
corners, etc. Do this 8" up from the ground
(nose height of an average cat). his should
be done when you let your cats out of the
room to investigate the house. Encountering
the pheromone-marked objects will help make
them feel at home. There is a product called
"Feliway" that contains synthetic feline
pheromones. It's available at pet supply
stores.
For more tips on how to prepare cats for a
move to a new home and what to expect those
first few nights, refer to Think Like
a Cat and Cat vs. Cat.
You’ll also find information on how
pheromones are used in training in numerous
situations.
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Why does my cat seem to enjoy being petted
but then suddenly bite me? |
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Generally, cats aren’t contact animals in
the same way as dogs. Some cats can only
handle a certain amount of petting or
touching before it leads to
over-stimulation. If you watch your cat
carefully, you’ll notice that he’ll begin
sending messages to you as he becomes more
uncomfortable. The problem is, owners
overlook these warning signs and don’t
realize that the cat has had enough until
they get bitten or scratched.
Some of the signals to watch for include:
skin twitching, tail thumping or lashing,
cessation of purring, growling, meowing,
frequently looking back at you, flattened
ears. If you ignore any of these signs, the
cat probably feels that he has no choice but
to bite you in order to stop the petting.
If you notice that you can pet your cat for
ten minutes before he bites, then stop
petting after about five minutes. If you
cease petting while it’s still a very
enjoyable experience, you’ll leave him
wanting more. If you keep the experience
very positive, you may be able to gradually
increase the petting session to six minutes,
then seven, etc.
Another thing to keep in mind is timing.
Don’t try to hold and pet your cat if he’s
in the mood to play. Just because you’re in
the mood to relax doesn’t mean that your cat
shares that desire. For a better
understanding on how to read your cat’s body
language, refer to Think Like a Cat
and Cat vs. Cat.
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We have 3 cats. How many litter boxes do
they need? |
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Ideally, there should be one box for every
cat. It doesn’t mean that each cat will use
one box exclusively, but by having 3 boxes,
there’s less of a chance for territorial
disputes. It also increases the possibility
that each cat will be able to find a clean
spot in the litter box for elimination.
Place each litter box in a different
location in case one cat has a tendency to
guard the immediate area surrounding one of
the boxes.
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How can I tell if my cats are playing or
fighting? |
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Sometimes cats play with so much enthusiasm
that it can be difficult for an owner to
tell the difference. Generally though, if
the cats are fighting you’ll probably hear
hisses and/or growls. You may even hear some
screaming. Also, when cats are fighting, one
cat may repeatedly be the aggressor. In
playtime, the cats take turns being in the
aggressive position.
After playtime, the cats should immediately
return to normal activity. If you notice
that they avoid one another or seem afraid
of each other, then they were probably
fighting.
If cats who normally don’t get along appear
to be playing together, keep an eye on the
situation because there’s a good chance it’s
actually a fight.
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I recently had to take one of my cats to the
veterinarian. Why did my other cat
hiss at him when
we returned home? |
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Cats recognize each other by scent. When
your cat returned home from the vet clinic
he no longer smelled the same. Add to that,
the fact that the smells associated with the
veterinary clinic are not high on a cat’s
list of favorites. This can often cause the
cat who remained at home to become
aggressive toward the other cat.
The best way to handle this is to keep the
cats separated in order to give the
returning cat time to take on the familiar
scents of the home again. Unless he’s sick
or injured, he will also probably do some
self-grooming which will help to
re-establish his own scent. You can also
take a towel and rub the cats who stayed
home and then rub the cat who went to the
veterinarian. Don't do it the other way
around because you don't want to spread the
clinic scent.
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What is catnip? |
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A member of the mint family, this herb
contains a substance known as nepatalactone.
It’s that ingredient in catnip that causes
the reaction in cats. A cat aroused by
catnip will usually exhibit behavior such as
rubbing, rolling and playing. Cats will
often even chew the catnip. The catnip
response usually lasts about 15 minutes and
is harmless and non-addictive. It’s a great
way for a cat to work off anxiety. It can
also be a wonderful adjunct to a feline
weight loss program because it encourages
play behavior. For a depressed or sedentary
cat, catnip can aid in putting the spark
back in his life. Not all cats react to
catnip though, and kittens should not be
given catnip.
Catnip and catnip-filled toys shouldn’t be
left out for your cat all of the time. If
constantly exposed to catnip, a cat can
become immune to its effects. So limit it to
once or twice a week.
The catnip response is an inherited gene
that one-third of cats lack. So don't get
worried if your cat doesn't react to the
herb.
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What does it mean when my cat rolls on his
back and exposes his stomach to me? |
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What the cat is saying will be based on
specific circumstances and his immediate
environment. A relaxed cat may stretch out
on his back and expose his belly. He'll only
do this in a secure environment where he
feels safe enough to enjoy this type of
total relaxation.
A cat will sometimes expose his tummy to
an owner or a higher-ranking cat when
confused about the direction of the
relationship. He may not be afraid enough to
turn and run, but he's also not sure whether
he'll end up having to defend himself.
A cat may expose his tummy to an owner
when unsure whether the owner wants to play
or be affectionate. When confronted by an
opponent, a cat may expose his belly as an
indication that he doesn't want to initiate
a battle but will fight if the opponent
engages in an attack. This is an important
signal because it gives the offensive cat
the opportunity to back off. This isn't a
sign of submission the way it is in canines,
but it does indicate a reluctance to active
engage in confrontation. If a cat is in
battle with no means of escape, he may roll
onto his back in order to fully engage all
weapons.
Every cat is an individual, and methods
of communication can vary. One cat may
expose his tummy to an owner or a companion
cat when he wants to engage in play but
isn't sure if the situation is appropriate.
Other cats develop the habit of exposing the
tummy after being trained by owners that
this gets a positive response. A few cats
aren't as sensitive about having their
bellies rubbed will allow petting. It's
important to keep in mind, though, that when
a cat does expose his tummy, it's not a good
idea to pet him there because it could
trigger the defensive response.
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Why does my cat bite the brush when I try to
groom her? |
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First, make sure you're using the right type
of brush. If you have any doubts, ask your
veterinarian or a professional groomer.
Then, go over your grooming technique. There
are parts of a cat's body that are
sensitive, such as the flanks, across the
backbone, and the tummy. Don't start out
brushing a sensitive area. Start by brushing
gently in an area that the cat enjoys, such
as right behind the ears. Your technique
should be an extension of petting. Just do a
couple of strokes, offer your kitty a treat
of some praise, and then end the session on
a positive note.
Make each grooming session brief so it ends
before the cat has time to realize what
you've been doing. You can eventually
increase the time of the sessions as your
cat gets used to the procedure. Whenever you
have to brush in a more sensitive area, so
one or two strokes, and then go back to a
favorite spot such as behind the head or
under the chin.
It's important to watch your cat's body
language. Before she tries to bite the brush
she may be giving off other signals to
indicate that she's reaching her tolerance
threshold. Signs of increased agitation can
include tail-lashing, skin twitching,
looking back at the brush, ears rotated back
and shifting body position. When you see
these signs, stop the grooming session.
Remember, the key is to keep the sessions
brief and positive.
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Why does my cat drool when I pet her? |
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If your cat drools only when you pet her,
then that's a normal behavior in many cats.
Some cats are just born droolers. What
happens is that the cat gets so carried away
with pleasure as you're petting her that she
relaxes her lower jaw, forgetting to
swallows. Of my three cats, two are big-time
droolers whenever they receive affection.
Some cats who have a tendency to drool may
also display this behavior when they are
frightened, such as during a visit to the
veterinarian.
If a cat drools all of the time or when
eating, or if there's a bad odor, it may
indicate a problem with the mouth or teeth.
In that case, the cat needs to be seen by
the veterinarian.
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 Meet
Pickles, the cat who banished his owner from the home;
Spencer the faucet-fixated feline; and Wishbone, the cat
who loved to munch on socks and sweaters. Their stories,
along with other confused cats, are told in Psycho
Kitty.
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 Starting
From Scratch
If you thought it was too late to correct your
adult cat’s behavior problems, you can now breathe a
sigh of relief because help has arrived.
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Cat
vs. Cat is a one-of-a-kind guide to setting up and
maintaining a peaceful multi-cat home. Cat vs. Cat goes
where no others have when it comes to solving unique
challenges of living with more than one cat.
Whether
you’re a veteran cat lover, a brand-new owner of a sweet
little kitten, or the frustrated companion of a feline
whose behavior is driving you crazy, nationally
acclaimed feline expert Pam Johnson-Bennett helps
you understand what makes your cat tick – as well as
meow, scratch, and purr.
If
you are at your wit’s end and don’t know where else to
turn for help with your misbehaving kitty, this book is
for you. It’s the next best thing to a personal
consultation with Pam. Virtually every behavior problem
is covered with step-by-step techniques for correcting
the behavior and re-establishing a closer bond with your
cat.
